In addition to my geology-focused posts, I’m going to try to post a weekly trail journal. Here’s the first installment! For you rock nerds I’m cooking up an awesome post on the Southern California section – stay tuned!
I’ve been posting my journal daily, cell service-permitting, On Instagram @alandanielchapman
Please forgive any misspellings, etc. I’m thumbing this out on my phone and my thumbs are fat.
Day 1 // Miles today: 28.6, Total: 28.6
Woke up to someone else’s alarm at first light – 5 am. The moment I opened my eyes a shooting star streaked across an extended fists length of sky. This is going to be a magical day.
Hiked the 1/2 mile to the terminus with Ryan. When we got there, new friends mango and spice were set up filming for a documentary they’re producing called “on the crest.” Last year I visited the southern terminus on a whim and met soft serve, who inspired me not to delay this dream any longer-I’m here today because of her.
Signed the logbook and headed back to Cleef for a pancake breakfast with coffee and hard boiled eggs – magnifico! Got my PCT tag and started hiking at precisely 7 AM. Hiked with Ryan for about 4 1/2 miles to a creek where I filled up on water to last me until Hauser Creek. It’s heating up quick. Said goodbye to Ryan and continued on my way at about 830.
Spent about an hour hiking with Broadway from Japan and Frasier from New Zealand. At Hauser Creek I did a full yard sale, drying my damp quilt and hanging out for 30 minutes with Frazier, 700, and porky who is finishing the triple crown.
I should have stayed with them. Instead, hungry for miles, I got torched by full sun on the steep and south-facing climb out from Hauser Creek.
Decided to not continue being dumb and start being smart by taking an unplanned siesta in a fully shaded mini cave full of sticks-some creature’s abandoned home-and waited out the heat of the day (1:30-4). Fraser joined me for the last hour of that time so we’re now cave buddies.
Miles came easier late afternoon/ early evening-less hot and flatter. Had a lovely dinner of cold soaked Cuban beans (wouldn’t have wanted it to be hot) and pressed on, under I-8, and climbed until the freeway noise diminished enough for good sleep. Psyched for day 2 – but it’ll be another scorcher.
Today’s wildlife: coyote song, a flitting hummingbird, a boa chilling in the middle of the trail, a coyote darting across the trail.
Day 2 // Miles today: 32.9, Total: 61.5
Happy Mother’s Day to all the mothers out there!
Broke camp a few minutes before my alarm at 5 AM. Dug my first cat hole and got moving at about 5:45 .
Leapfrogged with John, a college student who started yesterday as well, for a chunk of the morning. First trail magic at mile 39 by a fellow, and his fan club ,who is finishing the PCT southbound. Hit 10 before 10 and saw the first pine and cedar trees that the trail had to offer immediately after. Way cooler as I climb Mt. Laguna temperature wise. There was no need for a midday break like yesterday.
Did a quick resupply and electronics charge at the Mount Laguna store, enjoying an ice cream bar and chugging a Gatorade on the front porch before I left. The resupply will get me to Warner Springs, where I’ll get a couple days worth of gas station food before later pushing on to Idyllwild.
Flowed pretty smoothly over the next 10 miles or so, until 4 PM, collecting water as needed. Got behind in terms of calories a little bit and ate about 1500 calories of trail mix as I rested. This broke me out of the bonk. I’m learning the value of sit down eating breaks.
Psyched to see, from the flank of Garnet Mountain, my first glimpse of San Jacinto Peak, over 60 miles away as the crow flies and four days hiking. The faint outline of the San Bernardinos lies beyond as well.
Got my dehydrated beans and rice cold soaking around 6 PM and hiked until a little past sunset. Quickly set up – including my tarp because there were some clouds that were making me nervous (the last two nights I’ve cowboy camped) – and devoured the rice and beans, which was possibly the best meal I’ve ever had.
Fantastic day that felt easier than yesterday despite getting further down the trail.
Today’s wildlife: a Pacific ringtail lemur (I think), another coyote darting across the trail, and a horny toad.
Day 3 // Miles today: 33.3, Total: 94.8
Wind picked up around midnight, whipping around my tarp. Despite having earplugs in it made it tough to sleep. Eventually got tired of laying there and mobilized shortly after 5 AM. What a sunrise!
Today’s theme will likely be water insecurity. There is a 30+ mile, waterless stretch, hopefully with a cache about halfway through regardless I’ll be carrying my full capacity of 5 L for a portion of the day.
Coffee worked its magic after about 45 minutes and dug cat hole number two. Ran into John packing up minutes after.
Two hours and about 5 miles into the day I was treated to sick views of the Elsinore fault, a major active and earthquake producing fault part of the San Andreas Fault family. 8 AM met a nice fellow named Johnny at the mile 68 watering hole. Filled up on 5L water – hefty!
Flowed through a really cool section with lots of interesting cact before emptying out in “earthquake Valley.” Had no use for my tracking poles on this relatively easy section so I used them as an imaginary paddle for 30 minutes.
Filled up with water at scissors crossing (many thanks to whoever maintains the water cache!) and hung out under the bridge with Johnny and Devon for about 15 minutes. 14 mile dry stretch here we go!
From scissors crossing the trail switches back at least 1 million times on the exposed western flank of the San Felipe hills. Despite full sun and strong winds, trying to blow me off the mountain, the temperature is pretty comfortable today. Only saw two hikers all afternoon (new folks slash and GORF).
Popped on a podcast for a while (backpacker radio, obviously) made an invention in the process. My right ear canal is too big for my headphone so I wedged a pea sized rock in with the headphone and voila I can listen to stuff with two ears!
Cruised to a second water cache, where I filled up for the night and started hydrating some rice and beans. Continued on another couple miles being treated to a sun dog as I walked. Set up the tarp (possible rain in the forecast), ate dinner, and crashed.
Day 4 // Miles today: 34.4, Total: 129.2
I woke naturally at 4:40 AM and packed up quick as it was lightly sprinkling and very windy. Apparently my head was less than a foot from a cat hole with TP poking out of it while I slept.Started by walking through a sea of poodle dog bush around 5:15 AM . Wanted to get moving to get some heat going. Had some coffee and granola on the go for the first hour of the day. I sense a recurring theme of me absolutely loving the first few miles of the day . made a pitstop and proceeded to the first water of the day – past the 100 mile mark.
Met a couple nice folks at barrel Spring, including a fellow named razor. This is so cool! The people I’m meeting and nature I’m immersed in. Kind of feels like what I’m doing right now is more in line with what I’m supposed to be doing than sitting in front of a computer all day . Was psyched to only have to fill up 1 L and continue to move relatively unburdened by water weight for the a.m. today.
At San ysidro creek I realized that my soap dropper bottle was missing from my open toiletries Ziploc. I had addressed some minor chafing (the lowermost part of my butt cheek, which I decided to call my mudflaps) about 3/4 of a mile before hand so I ran back to that location where the soap had been flung a couple feet off of the trail. Soap recovered, no litter left behind, and I got a run in today!
Rolled into Warner Springs around 11 AM. so glad I went to the community center. They had everything I needed to get me to Idyllwild and more. Wendy and the other taking care of us were also so friendly! Dr Pepper and a fresh Snickers bar and was out of there in 30 minutes, without having to go into town to resupply from the gas station.Flowy miles from Warner Springs until Agua Caliente Creek – my favorite water source on the PCT so far. Climbed along that creek for a few hours and watch the trees change as I gained elevation.
In anticipation of an 11 mile water carry, I posted up alongside the last place to fill up from the creek for a nice break. Pack off, feet in the water, cameled up, and filtered water. It was glorious.
Long uneventful climb up to Mike’s place, where I ate some cold soaked rice and beans and got 4 L for the ensuing 13 mile waterless stretch. Watch for another 2 1/2 miles before setting up my tarp badly and calling it a night.
Day 5 // Miles today: 30.5, Total: 159.7
Settling into a groove of waking up at 4:40 AM and getting going shortly after five. Probably has something to do with my tarp whipping me in the face due to high winds. I must start picking sites more intelligently. It got down near freezing last night, so I slept with my Sawyer, but I was plenty warm. The wind that had me up once per hour, though.
Enjoyed some pop tarts and cold instant coffee (with notes of beans from dinner last night) for breakfast. Shortly after, cat hole number four, and continued with extra pep in my step.
Cruised to my first water stop about 10 miles into the day, through an awesome landscape of piñon, Juniper, assorted cacti, and granite boulders. The water stop is a well at the home of trail angel Mike Benedetti. Hung out for about 30 minutes, chatting with some interesting hikers and jumping on the trampoline (did a flip!) Hiked back to the trail with a couple of friends from Scotland and got some insights into Scottish slang.
Motored for about 10 miles as I approached Paradise Valley Cafe. Temperatures topped out at about 70 today – nothing wild – but the California sun hits different than in Minnesota. Feet felt a bit tender so I had a nice sit down pack off break eating a couple string cheese and a packet of cold soaked Idahoan instant potatoes.
Rolled into the iconic Paradise Valley Cafe around 3:45 PM ate a giant turkey sandwich and a Caesar salad with a chicken breast on it (craving protein!) Also charged electronics, got water, booked a room in Idyllwild for tomorrow night, and was moving again by 4:30 PM. A guy named Murali (started the day before me) showed up maybe 15 minutes after I arrived. Was nice getting to chat with him and all of the other hikers at the restaurant.
There’s an abrupt shift in vegetation and rocks from the west to the east side of Highway 74. I love the presence of more pines and the nice healthy granite of the San Jacintos! It could also be the double serving of dinner that I just ate that’s making me happy.
End of the day with a beautiful climb. My trail legs must be coming along because the 2500 foot climb didn’t feel too bad. Arrived at an established grouping of sites at mile 159.7. I found the perfect spot – under a nice canopy of trees, the temperature is nice and cool, sheltered from the wind, and soft pine duff on which to lay out my ground cloth and cowboy camp. This is by far the best site of the trip so far and I have it all to myself!
Day 6 // Miles today: 19.7, Total: 179.4
First time I woke up to my 5 AM alarm. My spot last night was just so cozy! Packed up and was on the trail shortly after 5:30. Typical pop tart and instant coffee breakfast on the go. (cat hole number five followed shortly after – like clockwork. Also feasted on the rocks on the side of the trail – world class metamorphic rocks with big honkin minerals. I am a rock nerd through and through and will never apologize for it.
The morning was a complete blast. I love the San Jacinto Mountains so much. Beautiful terrain, trees, rocks, and great views. To the east Joshua tree is visible and Palm Springs, Palm Desert, and Indio floor the basin. The Salton sea reflects early day light about 35 miles to the south east.
Did a quick slackpack detour to Apache spring for a late morning refill. North of the spring, the mountains get good and rugged. This made for slower travel, though it was really fun to see great exposures of rocks. This is like a mini preview of the Sierra Nevada without snow.
Chatted with a crew who were clearing the trail of thicc Ponderosa that had fallen across the trail. They used cross cut saws, as chainsaws are not allowed on the PCT. That’s very hard work and is much appreciated!
First snow sighting on trail at mile 176 – in the northward-cast shadow of Red Tahquitz.
Filled up from tasty Tahquitz creek and chatted with three fellow NOBOs (one named skullcrusher) planning on climbing San Jacinto tomorrow.
Hiking from the creek to saddle Junction was a chickadee party with 360° chickadee song. reached saddle Junction and turned off the PCT in order to access Idyllwild via the Devils slide trail. Started walking along the road and a guy named Frank doing yardwork out in front asked if I wanted a ride, which I sure did.
Plan tonight is to get pizza, resupply for the stretch to big bear lake, do laundry, shower, and crash. Town evening!! Nero tomorrow, back on trail tomorrow afternoon!
Day 7 // Miles today: 17.8, Total: 197.2
Woke up naturally at 5 AM despite being in a comfy bed. Last thing I did before going to bed last night was to do laundry in a garbage can in my hotel room, because the sink was too small. Was very pleased to discover upon waking up this morning that my jury-rigged method for drying my clothes worked! I made a platform by placing a ladder-like towel hanger atop the shower curtain and the adjacent open bathroom door – all underneath a shower heat lamp. Starting the day feeling like MacGyver.
Had some excellent lox bagels, chatting with fellow thru-hikers moss and mule, then checked out of my hotel- time to get back on trail, baby! Within seconds of stepping out of my hotel I got a hitch to the trailhead from a nice librarian named Colleen. Started up the devil’s slide trail at 10 am.
Regained the PCT shortly after 11 AM. Hiked with a recent college grad Willow for the last portion of the devil slide trail and a couple miles of PCT – she’s doing the San Jacinto alternate!
Hiked a few glorious miles through the high country of the San Jacintos before the massive descent off the north flank of the range began. At that point I was treated to a glimpse of where we’re headed: first the San Bernardinos and to the distant NW the San Gabes.
Flowed like water down the mountain until trail mile 197, which I called home for the evening. Nestled in a nook of scrub Oak protecting me from the wind on all sides.
That’s one full week on the PCT! What adventures will next week hold?
