Vilalba → Guitiriz → Sobrado dos Monxes → Arzúa
I took an impromptu rest day in Vilalba. I’d developed some new blisters that were pretty painful and the place I was staying was comfortable with lots of restaurant options and a 5 minute walk to a Mercadona!
I got a pizza from the restaurant under my accommodation for dinner and it was SO good. Exactly what I needed. Pesto, burrata, pistachios, and arugula–perfection.
Vilalba to Guitiriz
My blisters looked and felt better this morning. I still tried to be diligent about spreading Vaseline and taping up today, I don’t want them to get worse during these last few days on the Camino.
I left town a little before 8am–I thought today would be a somewhat long and hard day because it was 25km (16 miles) and the map made it look hilly and rocky. It was the perfect hiking weather this morning. I started out in my shorts and a short sleeved shirt and was cold, just how I like to hike. It took me a few hours to start sweating this morning and the cold air felt good on my legs.
The sun was out but not too hot. It actually felt like a perfect spring day. I felt zippy with my legs and feet rested–crazy how just one day off will reset everything. I arrived a little more than halfway at around 11:30am and decided to stop for a coffee and napolitana. I was back to hiking by noon.
I do love stopping in the small cafes along the way and seeing all of the local people socializing. It always seems like everyone knows each other and goes there every day just to hangout and catch up.
It turned out to be a gorgeous day. I passed a ton of other hikers today and only recognized one. It’s so funny how just one day can change the people and volume of hikers so much.
I was loving the weather so much I wanted some vibey music in the background, so I put on a playlist of Goth Babe’s complete discography. It was the perfect spring day background music and upbeat to keep me moving quickly.
To my surprise, I arrived at the casa rural I’m staying in tonight (first time!) at 1:30pm. The trail wasn’t too bad and the weather was so perfect I was cruising. It was one of my favorite weather days of the Camino so far.
I took a nice long shower and am now on the patio under an umbrella with my feet up. Life is good. My understanding is that a casa rural is more of a like bed and breakfast vibe–a bit more quirky, intimate, and in a quaint location.
I’ve seen a bunch of listings for casas rurales when looking at accomodations, but they’ve all been far from towns and there were better options available. I knew today, after my rest day, I wanted to go a bit further than the typical etapa people take so that I could stay on track to meet up with my friend in a few days. This place was the best option and I feel like I found a hidden gem.
My room is very cute. It’s got a stone wall and old farm windows. It also has a door that opens directly outside to the shared outdoor patio, but my favorite part is that the top of the door opens just the window. I love doors like that, that split in half, they feel so old fashioned and novel. It’s a sweet set-up, and they serve dinner and breakfast! I’m going to miss places like this at the Camino price point when I go back to the US (especially moving to NYC).
I couldn’t get great pics, but you get it.
Guitiriz to Sobrado dos Monxes
The casa rural I stayed at last night might have been one of my favorite places on the Camino so far. I’m not sure if that one was special or all of the casas rurales are like that, but it was just such a sweet experience. Last night, dinner was just me and two Danish women in their 70s (!) It’s so amazing they’re out here doing this? They’re hiking for 16 days of the Camino and arriving in Santiago a day after me.
There was tuna (Isabel brand!) in the salad at dinner last night (and in the vending machine strangely enough). I’ve never tried tuna because I imagined it just tasted like cold fishy chicken, and I was right. I can now check off that I’ve tried it but don’t really plan on eating it again.
The pasta dish had pork in it–which the owner told me earlier would be in there–but after I’d eaten and not had much of the meat (I don’t really like meat) he asked if I liked the “lomo” which I thought meant lamb and was shook (I have no interest in eating lamb). My sister pointed out it just means pork tenderloin, phew.
First course with the tuna and other random things added to the salad. (Also, the salami looking stuff is deer meat).
Pasta with pork tenderloin (not lamb).
Brownie with walnuts and blackberry sauce.
Isabel tuna in the vending machine, aye.
Breakfast was also included this morning and there was a fancy self-serve coffee machine. Having unlimited access to this, I had way too many coffees (small European coffees but still).
I started late this morning. 1) Because the free breakfast didn’t start until 8:30am, and 2) It’s only about a 5-6 hour walk today to Sobrado dos Monxes, and the place I’m staying is self check-in starting at 3pm. I had plenty of time to stroll today.
Honeysuckles!?
My hair has gotten so long, and in the heat and humidity it sticks to my sweaty neck, arms, etc. Hate. I thought I’d wear my hair in braids more before starting hiking to keep it out of my face, but turns out my go-to has been a ponytail (high and tight) and braid the ponytail. Not that this really matters other than I don’t normally wear my hair like that in real life, so maybe I will now or maybe it’ll just be my Camino signature.
So. Sweaty.
I started the day with music, listening to all 3 of Lorde’s albums after I found out she’s releasing a new one this summer. (Love the pelvis x-ray cover art with her IUD <3). It was a beautiful, breezy, sunny spring day and the perfect music for a few hours.
The trail today was a mix of terrains. It started out on a paved back country road and arrived at a gravel path. The gravel path turned into a rocky trail that cut into the woods and turned into the muddy trail I’m used to.
I’ve been wearing my new shoes lately and carrying my Hokas with me. I felt too sentimental to trash them before I got to Santiago. I originally bought them as my first pair of trail runners to test out for the AT, and they carried me for almost all of the Camino. I’m not sure if I’ll ditch them in Santiago or if they’ll make the journey to Finisterre too. But, because I refuse to get rid of them yet, when I got to this super muddy section that seemed like the only way to go was through, I switched into the Hokas.
Once I got out of the woods and back to the road, I switched back. It feels so high maintenance to do this, but hey, might as well use them if they’re with me. I walked on the road for about 5 minutes before getting to a steep incline. The uphill walk lasted about 20 minutes and the sun was beating down on me. I finally got to the top and there, thankfully, was a pretty view.
On the other side of this hill was gravel trails and family farms. I saw a man way in the distance walking with a horse and when we got close he stopped and wanted to talk. He jokingly offered me the horse, I said yes, of course, and we laughed while I pet his beautiful white horse. He asked if I was “española” (the best compliment), and we did the usual series of questions. You’re hiking alone? Why? Where’d you learn Spanish? etc. He was very sweet and it was nice to take a walking rest by chatting with him.
Not 10 minutes later, I passed another older man out on his own hike who was blasting electronic music. Kind of a vibe. That inspired me to put on some Goth Babe and his song “Spinnaker Days” got me through my next big climb.
I arrived to Sobrado dos Monxes at around 2pm and popped into a cafe for a Coke zero and a treat. It was so hot today I chugged the cold soda. I got a tarta de Santiago which is like an almond cake, soooooo good. I wish I could have this every day when I go home.
I feel like each section of the Camino I’ve had a hyperfixation snack, drink, food. Galicia’s is definitely tarta de Santiago. Asturias was their ciders. Cantabria was tortilla and Basque country got me onto napolitanas <3 These aren’t necessarily signatures for the region, just what I kept eating.
I found out from another pilgrim that there’s an albergue here that’s a monastery with 100+ beds. Woah. The rumor is there’s only ever one monk working and he hand checks everyone in starting at 4pm every day and it can take multiple hours to get inside and set-up with your bunk.
Sobrado dos Monxes to Arzúa
Today I merge with the French way! I already noticed yesterday there were so many more hikers, and I think it’s only going to get more crowded from here. A lot of people just do the last 100km of the Camino to get the Compostela. It’s also maybe the most exciting part–arriving in Santiago (I guess, I wouldn’t know–not yet!).
I had a big breakfast before leaving Sobrado dos Monxes today–it’s Sunday, so you never know what will be open or closed. I’ve been getting a tostada with eggs and bacon (It’s funny because I don’t ever eat bacon in the US, but it’s one of the better options for me here). That toastada they call an Americana, then I also get an Americano coffee–ugh, so American. Today was the first time I’ve eaten eggs with a runny yolk ever–I usually ask for my eggs revueltos, but forgot today. The cafe is also playing mass on the TV on this gorgeous Sunday morning. I was trying to listen and understand what they were saying. I hope my grandma is proud (love you, GG <3).
The weather was misting when I left. I put on my pack cover, but did not put on my poncho yet in naive defiance. It started raining harder, but was still sunny, but I put my poncho on anyway. The rain stopped after about 30 minutes and was sunny the rest of the day. Love.
The trail was paved leaving town and a bit rocky once I got into the woods again. This sign popped up, which is never my favorite to see, because it’s warning bikers about a steep downhill ahead. Steep downhills are rough on the knees.
I also saw this sticker on a sign that was funny and this bull on the side of a house (bull city!)
So true, bestie.
My hometown of Durham is called Bull City <3
I was walking mostly on back paved country roads today, no cars in sight (yes!), and lots of nice green shady trees. I saw an older man ahead walking with his hands behind his back and stopping to stare at flowers or the animals in the field–you know the type. I bid my usual “buenas” in the afternoon and he stopped me and asked if I was “sola?”, yes. He warned me to be careful, then proceeded to tell me his life story and the history of the area we were in–even though he was from Barcelona. He kept stopping to ask “me entiendes?”, yes–you were just telling me how Julius Caesar conquered all of this land etc…
He was very sweet and we talked–he talked mostly–for about 20 minutes. My sister taught me a phrase Spanish people use to wrap up a conversation when there’s nothing else to say–”pues, nada”…and I was on my way.
This donkey ran up to me from the middle of the pasture when I walked by, so of course i had to pet him.
I arrived to my hotel for the evening–I got a private room tonight because I had some chatting on the phone to do this evening. The woman running the place told me there was a lavadora if I wanted to use it–um yes, I would love to wash my clothes. When I came out of my room 30 minutes later after having showered and asked about the lavadora, she seemed surprised that I took her up on her offer and a man sitting at a table next to the reception desk told me to follow him. Okay?…
He led me outside, into a restaurant next door, and through a back door to the washing machine and told me to toss my stuff in, then started the machine. Nice! 40 minutes later, I switched my clothes to the dryer! (what a luxury), and boom, fresh clothes <3
Meanwhile, I ate at the restaurant we walked through–it only felt right. I got spaghetti and a tarta de Santiago. The spaghetti had so much meat in it–I think I’ve truly eaten more meat in the last few months in Spain than I did in the entirety of last year–but it was still good. I finished off with a tarta de Santiago–my new hyperfixation treat–it’s a yummy moist almond cake.
When I went to retrieve my clothes, I saw a bookshelf of free books and saw Kristin Hannah’s Nightingale. I love a historical fiction book and had heard this one was so good. It’s over 400 pages, so pretty hefty, but I decided to adopt it and add it to the weight of my pack. I didn’t weigh my pack before coming and haven’t weighed it since starting the Camino, but it honestly feels pretty good and I’m not worried about it.
Like I said, I had some people to chat with this evening, so I spent almost the entirety of my time for the rest of the afternoon and evening on the phone–and I’m not mad about it. Because of that, I haven’t written for the blog in several days but that’s what this adventure is about–doing whatever I want <3
These trees were SO big.
Beautiful view from my window <3
Today, I’m sharing another entry from Journey to the Heart by: Melody Beattie. The theme of the day is “Embrace Life’s Mystery.”
“Embrace the mystery of life. You don’t need to know everything in your head. You don’t need to figure everything out. You don’t need all the answers. Let yourself experience life. Hang on to the handlebars when you must, but as much as possible put your hands in the air and enjoy the ride. Feel everything you need to feel along the way. Feel the fear, the joy, the exhilaration. Feel the wind in your hair and the sun on your shoulders. Watch the magical journey of your life unfold with all its ups and downs. Grasp the insights that come. Embrace the mystery of life. Embrace the mystery and magic of you.”
This message led to a long journal entry for me and reflection on how I’ve gotten here. Here, almost at the end of the Camino. It certainly wasn’t planned or expected. It certainly was filled with lots of solitude and silence, connection with nature, connection with myself, connection with others. I still don’t, and might never, have the answers of why life turned out the way it did. But, what I do know, is that this time tomorrow I will be in Santiago and have completed the adventure of a lifetime (and still have 4 bonus days to hike <3).
xo
