Arrival to Santiago!

Days 39 & 40

Arzúa→ O Pedrouzo → Santiago de Compostela!!

40 days ago, I walked out of Irún having just gotten my pilgrim passport and first stamp. I followed the yellow arrows out of town and into the woods and didn’t look back. I had no idea what I was doing. I hadn’t really planned or done much research. I was still pretty heartbroken from my break-up. And, the Camino was my back-up plan to the AT.

I knew I would make it to Santiago. I didn’t doubt that I could walk the entirety of the Camino del Norte, but I just hadn’t really thought about the end. I hadn’t yet thought about what it would feel like to complete the Camino. I just wanted to hike.

I think it’s a bit different for me (arriving in Santiago) because I knew from the beginning I wouldn’t be ending there. I knew I would want to continue past Santiago to Finisterre. Santiago is still a huge milestone: it’s the Camino finish line. Either way, I know when I arrive tomorrow it will likely be emotional.

But, today!!

I left late again today for several reasons. 1) I was up late talking on the phone and catching up with my friends and family in the US who are 6 hours behind. 2) I knew the Camino merged with the French way in Arzúra, so wanted to see if I could avoid some of the crowd, especially since today was only 12 miles.

I got another Americana tostada and Americano coffee combo for breakfast this morning, then started walking. Immediately, the trail was different. The entirety of the Norte has varied, but today was a different trail than any I’ve seen so far. For one, the trail was this dusty, gravel-y dirt I hadn’t really seen yet and the most beautifully maintained wide paths. Where was this in the Basque Country???? 

Now I see why people hike the French way–not to say that it was easy and diminish anyone’s experience–but, I see the appeal of the flat and well-maintained trail (if that’s how the rest of the Camino Frances is, I have no idea). The Norte could NEVER. That is also why I picked the Norte though, I wanted a bit more rugged terrain. 

Secondly, it was PACKED today. I didn’t walk for longer than 2 minutes by myself (so didn’t take many pics for the first time). I kept happening upon groups of people who would often stop me to have a chat for about 15-20 minutes before I politely continued on. I met a group of super sweet cardiac nurses from Florida who asked me for my story and gave the kindest pep talk. Next, I met 3 women from Ecuador!!!!!

I studied abroad in Ecuador back in 2018 and visited again with one of my besties from study abroad in January of this year. That country will forever be near and dear to my heart, and it’s the place that was the most formative for me learning Spanish. Speaking with those 3 women in Spanish this morning–I walked with them for about an hour because we couldn’t stop talking–healed something in me. It warmed my heart, made me feel at peace, made mre feel comfort, and also gave me this extra special push and memory to take from the Camino. It was the best.

Super cool flowers. They kind of look orchid-y? 

The rest of the day continued on with me walking, chatting with new people, and walking some more. The route was shady the whole time, and again, so flat and cruisy. 2 interesting groups of note–a group of high school seniors from Belgium doing their senior trip. A 6-day section of the Camino Frances was one of the 3 options they had for their senior trip (so cool). A group from the UK on a “coach” tour–the tour bus dropped them off at the trailhead to do a 4km hike, then get back on the bust to continue their tour. What a cute idea! They were SO excited to talk to someone doing the whole Camino–they had lots of questions and were so sweet and encouraging. 

There was also a group from Argentina who were all wearing Messi jerseys (Carolina blue <3 and white). I couldn’t understand a word they were saying. It is so fun to meet so many different people, speaking different languages and dialects, all just on a hot girl walk together on this beautiful spring day. 

The most important character I met today was a border collie mix who was hiking the Camino. She had a shell necklace on (!!!!!!) to show everyone she was a true pilgrim. I was so excited and caught off guard I didn’t get a picture, but maybe I will tomorrow <3

Overall, it was probably one of my favorite days on the Camino. It had nothing to do with the trail and everything to do with the people. There were no crazy views or rewarding up-hill climbs, but I had so many interesting conversations and met so many people who were so kind and encouraging to a 27-year-old American out here to figure some stuff out. 

I just thought this rooster statue was funny.

Arrival to Santiago!!!!

I knew I wanted to leave early this morning. I didn’t plan to take a zero day in Santiago, so I wanted as much of the day as I could to explore the place where the Caminos all lead to!!!! I woke up before my alarm and accidentally saw the sunrise. What a pleasant surprise.

I packed up and left before 8am and there were already tons of people out. I walked by the dog I saw yesterday with a pilgrim necklace!! 

I was cold for the first hour this morning in my shorts and usual pink t-shirt. I liked hiking cold and didn’t sweat much until around 10am. I met lots of people along the way, none did the Norte, all were section hiking to Santiago or had done the Frances. I knew the Frances was more popular and crowded but I don’t really think I understood until the last 2 days. 

As we walked, there were people set-up along the trail leading into Santiago playing music, selling their art and trinkets, and had stamps and inspiration signs for the pilgrims.

I met a woman from the Philippines hiking for her friend’s 50th birthday (so cute). She had a barbie tied to her backpack that her granddaughter had given her. We walked together for about 20 minutes and she asked me to share my story of why I’m doing the Camino right now. Afterwards, before we parted ways, she told me that what is meant for me will find its way to me, or find its way back to me. She took a selfie of us and bid me well.

The hike was relatively easy with a few uphills and some nice shady trees. Just like yesterday, I couldn’t walk long without chatting with another group of hikers. I was able to pass alot of them and have 10-15 minutes of solitude towards the end of the hike today before arriving in Santiago proper. 

This section of the Camino is super, super well marked, so I didn’t have to look at my map at all today. I looked at it when I saw the cathedral for the first time upon entering Santiago. It was crazy to see these blue dots I’ve been following just end. I’d almost gotten to the last blue dot. Until today, I would just swipe and swipe and swipe across the map to see the route and until I saw where I was going to end up for the day. Now, I’ll have to download a new map for Finisterre.

I teared up multiple times walking through and into Santiago, but surprisingly when I entered the cathedral plaza I just felt peace. 

The plaza was full and buzzing, but not crowded. Groups of students on field trips, other hikers, loved ones of hikers waiting to congratulate their people (I saw a young family run up to their dad arriving at the plaza and shed a few tears). Bikepackers, people from the Camino Frances, Portuguese, Norte and more. It was magical.

I took some pictures, had my picture taken, and offered photoshoots for other pilgrims. My favorite was this man from Scotland who was walking to raise money for Alzheimer’s research (and has a blog too). His wife’s name was also Isabel <3

After photos, I sat down in the plaza and leaned against my pack and just soaked in the moment and the sunshine. I got SO lucky with the weather the past week. I’m so grateful I really only had one bad day of rain in Galicia. It’s been overcast some days, but the last 4 days have been blue skies and breezy.

I did it!

My backpack & poles (& Kula cloth of course) <3

Final shot for my Hokas that made it all the way with me.

I saw a bunch of men in suits, photographers, and camera people, and then this group of students (what looked like kindergarteners who were all paired up and holding hands, soo cute) waved and sounded like they said “hola presidente.” I didn’t take a picture to confirm the identity, but seemed like it had to be some important person.

First pic I took after walking in and taking in the moment <3

I feel content and calm now that I’ve made it to Santiago, but that this isn’t the end of my Camino. I went to the pilgrim office to show my credencial of the stamps I’ve been collecting over the last 828km from Irún and received my Compostela! One is in Latin and the other in Spanish and they even give you a little tube to protect them in to travel with. 

All of my stamps from April 18th in Irun onward!

Latin (and my name in Latin) on the left, Spanish on the right.

Obligatory 0.5 selfie and the travel tube sitting on the counter.I was chatting it up with the man handling my compostela and turns out he’s been to North Carolina. Durham, in fact! Of course, another connection to Duke (dook), his wife taught Spanish there for a bit. It was a sweet moment and he asked me what’s next? I told him I planned to start the hike to Finisterre tomorrow. He told me I might as well add an extra day to the trip and go up to Muxia too–heard, will do. He also said that technically those routes are their own Caminos. He gave me a new pilgrim passport specifically for Muxia and Finisterre to fill with sellos and earn my “Fisterrá” and “Muxiana” certificates (apparently they’re written in Galician and signed by the town mayor). 

Obviously hiking these Caminos isn’t for the certificates, but it is fun to collect stamps and get a physical thing to show how far you walked.

Obligatory 0.5 selfie with my compostela and the travel tube sitting on the counter behind me.

I love that it’s socially acceptable to just sit and even lay down in the plaza in front of the cathedral. I spent so much time there the rest of the afternoon, just sitting and taking it in. I came back to the plaza 2 other times after my initial arrival to just sit and think about what got me here. I also finally had my lollipop I bought one of the first days on the Camino.

It’s a very warm and safe atmosphere. Everyone seems just genuinely happy, excited, relieved, proud of themselves and each other. Lots of smiles, hugs, and happy tears. When big, guided groups walked in, everyone started cheering. I met a school group from a university in Pennsylvania today that had done the entire Camino Frances. So cute, they went crazy when they all walked in.

I tried (as I have many times on my walk) to replay from memory where I’ve been, picture where I stayed, towns I went through. It was a fun game to play here in Santiago sitting on the ground in the plaza. It’s crazy to think back to arriving in Irún, in the dark on a train from Madrid. Going to sleep. Then, just starting walking in the morning for the next 40 days. And now, I’m here. In Santiago!

The town is bumping with pilgrims. This is the most at-home I’ve felt in my absurd all-pink town outfit. Everyone’s limping, feet still taped up, random colors of clothes paired together, and shower shoes out on the town. I love it.

Kids were blowing bubbles from their window on the path to the cathedral <3

Overall, I’m so happy I chose the Camino del Norte. It was exactly what I needed. I was eavesdropping on some older Americans talking earlier (English speakers always seem to talk so loud here), but one of them said–A lot of people come out on the Camino for something specific, a certain answer, to figure out and work through a problem, and they hardly ever get that thing they came out looking for, but they leave with something they didn’t expect and that can be so much more valuable. I find that to be very true for myself. 

Tomorrow, I will start my adventure to Finisterre (on my technical 2nd Camino), but I still just consider it a continuation of my Camino that I came out here to do. I’ve got about 5 more days of hiking and I’m eager to keep going. We’ll see how I feel when my time truly does come to a close, but until then I get to keep walking and keep hearing “buen Camino!”

Keep Moving by: Maggie Smith

“Commit yourself to the present. Loosen your grip on the life you had before–before a loss, an upheaval, a change that called everything into question–so that you can be here, where you’re needed, right now. Keep moving.”

I’m taking this with me into my second phase of this adventure. I want to soak in the rest of the time I have on the Camino and get all I can from it. I still think I’ll be reflecting on this hike for months and years to come to truly understand what kind of growth came from it, but for now, I’m here and ready to experience it all.

xo