WHITNEY ON THE HORIZON
Day 50, I’m fully immersed into the Sierra experience. Camped at Chicken Spring Lake. My tent facing East, as the sun rises this morning. As I sit here, I’m 16 miles from base camp Whitney. I plan on moving as soon as I eat my everything bagel and peanut butter, and drink my coffee hot chocolate. It’s not too cold this morning, chilly, but manageable. I’m hoping to catch an early morning sunrise of Whitney. However, I’m not a morning person and I’m not a cold person. Best believe I’ll be wearing all of my clothes, including rain gear. I’m going to try and get up close to Midnight and sit at the top of Whitney as the sun crests the horizon. The morning is relaxing, with friends chatting as they eat breakfast. We’re all summiting tomorrow. Today and tomorrow are looking to be magical.
About 4 miles from the Whitney junction. I hate to say it, but the mosquitos are out. Took an alternate through Rock Creek and got completely annihilated by the wrath of the flying vermin. It’s been sunny and warm all day, makes me wonder if it’ll be freezing on Whitney. Of course it will, it’ll be early, early morning. I should be meeting up with my friends Rox and Flora for the summit tomorrow. I haven’t seen really anyone today. I bet it’ll be packed at the campground below Whitney. Hoping to get some solid sleep tonight so I can give it my all tomorrow. Slowly making my way to camp after a few creek crossings, no wet feet yet! Scratch that, going specifically to Whitney junction caused me to ford twice. Getting wet feet before you get to camp is a less than ideal thing to happen. I will say I cannot wait until the day all mosquitos go extinct. Curse of the mosquito, was the theme today.
DID I JUST PEAK AT LIFE???
Day 51, is the peak of all peaks! Woke up at 12:30am and got moving from Crabtree meadows at 1:15am. Mind you, I pulled into camp after 9pm last night. The glow of headlamps strung across the valley of those who are also doing a sunrise summit. Mt Whitney is no joke. It’s a challenge. From snow field traverses (ice spikes and ice axe not necessary), to switchbacks galore. I made my way to the top of Whitney, showcasing stunning colors across the morning sky. It was freezing, thank goodness for my 10 degree quilt and all my layers. It’s 10am now and I’m off the mountain. Headed back towards Crabtree, I’m exhausted. Ready for a nap and a relaxing rest of the day in my tent. What an incredible experience, to sit at the top of the John Muir Trail and sharing it with those who are like minded and inspiring. I literally cannot believe I peaked the tallest mountain in the lower 48 at 14,505 ft. Nothing is unattainable now.
I’ve been through National Parks before. My favorite being Arches, though I only spent a few moments there. I have never been deep inside a National Park. To experience why the heck anyone would want to cherish this area. I’ve only ever seen a Marmot on tv. Today alone, I’ve seen dozens. They just wander around, looking all cute and stuff. It’s surreal to be laying between 13,000 ft mountains, with 3 alpine lakes, and a small river running though the middle. We take for granted almost everything in our lives. If not you, then most definitely me. Opening my eyes to the blessings that occur to me, has only opened up a new life. Years ago, I would never have thought I’d be doing what I’m currently doing. I’ve been very fortunate to experience life. There’s something spiritual about living in the wilderness for almost 2 months. I welcome the new life ahead.
AM I SLOW OR JUST ENJOYING MYSELF?
Day 52, was another low mileage day. I’m not sure how others are keeping pace with the desert. I’m stuck between being awestruck and feeling like I need to put my head down and go. I woke up late, but it’s subjective because who’s keeping track? I feel somewhat free in the Sierra. Mainly due to the fact that the elevation has allowed me to move slower. Why would I want to blaze through the Sierra? Northern California and Oregon are the places to blaze through. Right now, I enjoy taking my time and living, with full investment, in the Sierra. I wanted to summit Forester Pass today. I got as far as the base of it. From where I am, it’s standing high and there’s snow around me. I got to the base of the pass at 7:30pm. Figured it’d be a safer move just to camp here. I found a patch of non rocky grass that was by to pitch my tent. The stars are divine out here.
SERIOUSLY NEED AN UPLIFT
Day 53, is my latest day yet. It was so comfortable here on the rocks, and that’s not sarcasm. I knew that this day was going to be a relaxed one. I’m trying to get to Bishop via Kearsarge Pass, which the junction is 10 miles away. It is a total trip of 17 miles to the trailhead, where I’ll catch a hitch into town. It is a weekend, so the buses aren’t running. Was debating whether to take a zero today, hiking to Kearsarge tomorrow, then making it to the trailhead where I’ll catch the bus into Bishop. I could catch a ride via campers and/or day hikers because it’s the weekend, but I have to do laundry and resupply and ship my ice stuff, then hitch back to the trailhead in the same day. I would really like to switch out my socks for a new pair, Darn Tough has a lifetime warranty and some gear shops exchange. I have tasks, but today either way, will be chill.
The desert killed my hiking vibe. I enjoy being out here and am mesmerized by the scenery. If the Sierra happened day 1, I probably would feel differently. I’m still hiking because I’ve made it so far, and can’t see myself feeling good about leaving trail. I need something really big to keep me going. I feel myself getting closer to wanting to leave. Perhaps that’s why I’m moving slower? Am I not motivated? Do I genuinely want to quit? I think those questions are false, however I find it becoming harder to get up the gumption to get moving in the morning. I also take frequent breaks that take the day away. I do like that whenever I pass day hikers, they are always commenting on how I look like a full on thru hiker. I mean, I hoped I would, I’ve been out here for almost 2 months now. I’m still moving towards Canada, I just need 1 solid day to feel like I’m actually invested. I want BIG WINS!
I’M HIGH, WE’RE HIGH, FORESTER PASS
Day 54, means that I passed the highest point on the PCT. Forester Pass was nerve wracking, to say the least. From the south side, it didn’t look that bad, when you peaked and went north, the snow fields were… stressful. I peaked Forester at about noon. The sun had began melting some of the top layer of snow. Still, you can find footing and not use any ice stuff, but there were moments where your feet would be at an angle and then the grip would give way. By far the most stressful situation I’ve ever been in. I haven’t felt fear this entire trip, but yesterday I felt fear. I’m confident in my ability to keep myself alive, but extenuating circumstances can prevent folks from using their skills. I came out of it alive, and I’m thankful for that. Now at Kearsarge to get a hitch into town. Attempting to stay in my first hostel. Then tomorrow, a resupply.
The hitching experience was the craziest I’ve experienced yet! As soon as I got off the mountain, I met an angel ,who hiked in 2006, who offered a ride to Big Pine. In Big Pine, the road had construction and closed the left lane going towards Bishop. Stuck my thumb out on the busy road by a gas station and got a hitch within 10 minutes. Thank you angels for helping me get into town! Hostel California is an incredible place. Work for stay, cheap rates, showers, loaner clothes, bikes and of course “amenities”. I was being told by my hiker friends, returning to Kearsarge, that it would fit my vibe entirely. First thing I did was go to Taco Bell. There’s nothing like fast food to fill a hungry belly off of Kearsarge. I’m a little bummed because I wanted to exchange my Darn Tough socks (they have a lifetime warranty). Some stores on trail offer that exchange, but no place in Bishop does unfortunately (don’t believe what FarOut or Reddit always tells you) I did a new packing style for my bear can. Bulk everything into their individual gallon ziplock bags, I think I have too much food to get to Mammoth. Waking up in the morning to bounce my package from Kennedy to Mammoth and maybe send some stuff home, still debating on that. I made myself dinner in a real kitchen for the first time since I left home, ate almost an entire dozen of glazed donuts and hung out with some really rad people. I wonder what tomorrow has in store for Skunk.
ZERO HERO AND FRIENDS, CHEERO
Day 55, is my second zero of the PCT. Last night, I didn’t get much sleep. I find that going into towns makes me less exhausted and more prone to scrolling on TikTok until 1 or 2am. I don’t know, maybe just having a way to charge and have service is a perfect combo for not sleeping much. For me, at least. I’m doing a work for stay here at Hostel California. It’s a pretty wild place. I bounced my package, yet again, to the next resupply point in Mammoth. I relate to people hating their jobs, but it’s time to get out if it’s that bad you don’t have much empathy. I’m slowly realizing I need more money. The desert felt like a party. Although I wasn’t drinking, my costs were still prevalent. Wondering, “will I even make it to Canada?” If I have to scour dumpsters and eat completely ramen, I’ll do it. Canada is the goal and has been since day 1. Oh, and I’m more than halfway through California. Let’s hope the next half is easy peasy, fast and breezy.
Today was a chill day. Rox came into town. He sent me a message to my garmin, I told him to come hang. It’s cool to meet up and spend the day taking in the town. Today, I got a new backpack. A 70L Osprey. I found it at the gear exchange here in Bishop. $30 for a $400 backpack brand new. Nothing is missing, it’s functional. Definitely can take me another 1,000 miles. Lifetime warranty too. New trekking poles too. Oh and they even exchanged my Darn Tough socks. I’ve had holes in those things for a hundred miles! Went out and had a beer with a friend. Actually it was at least 10 of us at the table. Then we went to see a movie. Live action doesn’t have to be terrible. All in all, today was a pretty relaxing day. Excited to move into the mountains tomorrow, with new gear!
NEW PACK WHO DIS??
Day 56, I’m back to Kearsarge Pass. Bishop elevation was 4100 ft. Kearsarge is 11,700 ft. Currently sitting at 10,000 ft, trying to slowly acclimate. The zero day might cause me to be more prone to elevation sickness. I like my new gear. A new backpack is something to definitely get used to. We’ll see how I feel after this nearly 2,000 ft climb. Aiming for Rae Lakes, post Glen Pass. However, it is 5pm. I don’t know if I really want to be descending close to dark. My pack is the heaviest it has ever been. It feels more sturdy than my previous one. I’m hoping, once I get used to it, it makes me want to take breaks less. This bag is taking me to Canada.
THE BIGGEST STORM OF MY LIFE
Day 57, I slept right back at Kearsarge Lakes again. Waking up to the distinct chatter of other hikers trying to make it to town. I step outside to go to the bathroom, and I start getting hit with hail. Temperature dropped pretty quickly, as so did the sun get overridden by thick clouds. Unsure what the rest of the day holds. My friend Rox said that there’s a 40% chance of dry thunderstorms today. I get the best sleep on trail, consistently like 9-10 hours on average. I have no plan for today. Just to make it further North. Mentally, I’m not really there today. I’m not certain as to why. Maybe it’s because money is tight, or perhaps I’m bummed about being slow and not being able to catch up with friends. It’s possibly just a fluke day. I took my second zero, maybe the extra day brought a little funk. I guess I just have to walk and let my mind run free. Work through some stuff.
Coming off of Glen Pass, I hear thunder in the distance. The mountains ahead are peaked with an ominous grey. I’m thinking “it’s not going to be that terrible”. As I’m getting to Upper Rae Lake, the hail starts. Just a little, the thunder rolls overhead. Now time for a difficult river crossing. Technical bolder hopping, it’s cold and I can’t get my feet too wet. The river is rising by the second, so I have to act fast in order to get to a safe point. I make it across as lighting strikes over me. I decided right then I was going to find a place to pitch my tent and wait out the weather. It’s 5:30pm anyway, good place to set up camp. It kinda sucks though because I’ve only gone a short distance. Maybe 5 miles. The climb up Glen was tough for me. I wasn’t going to race the storm. Tomorrow I’ll make better mileage. Tonight, I try to stay warm, I can see my breath.
DRYING OUT, TIME TO POUT
Day 58, I feel a bit drained today. I decided to stay at camp until most things were dry. It’s almost 10am and I’m finally warm and not drenched. It’s funny to me because I was highly considering sending my rain gear home, I did not. The day back in the mountains, I encounter the biggest storm I’ve seen since Agua Dulce. I’m not a fan of hiking in the rain. I was almost stunted for a moment, where I didn’t know what to do. I’m not entirely sure if I’m supposed to be camping where I’m at, but I needed to set up shelter. Possibly the most miserable I’ve been on trail. Today, my plan is to hop over Pinchot Pass today, about 13 miles away. If I can do a 15 mile day, I’ll feel happy.
I’d really like to get to the bottom of why I feel so lethargic. Is it my lack of will to continue? Am I being affected by the elevation? I feel like it takes me all day just to make it 5 miles. I have a tendency of waking up later too. Since the desert, I feel no need to wake up before the sun rises. I just passed mile 800. I haven’t seen 100 miles take this long since week 1. My pack is heavy, I have enough food to get me to Mammoth Lakes, hopefully. My pack itself, is heavy. I fell yesterday on Glen Pass too. Hurt my hip a little bit. Am I doing something wrong? The desert was miserable, but fun. The Sierra feels like I’m going against the wind. It’s beautiful, but it’s hard to focus on anything other than how tired I feel. My body is craving to couch potato.
INDEPENDENCE, INDEPENDENT
Day 59, it’s the 4th of July. I climbed Pinchot Pass today at around 1pm. It’s been a relatively decent day. A couple river crossings, 2 I had to get my feet wet. Debating on whether or not to summit Mather Pass today. I’m only 4 miles away. It’s almost 6pm now. I’d be attempting the Pass well after 8pm. There’s a few cool campsites within the next mile I might hit up. I’ve been feeling good all day, until this last few miles. I did have a ton of caffeine earlier, maybe it’s the crash? I’m tired of the mosquitos! I take any opportunity, when none are around, to enjoy the scenery. Most of the day feels spent running away from mosquitos.
Today, I did 2 passes. Pinchot and Mather. The snow was basically all gone. I was able to get down Mather by 9pm. Tonight, it’s my first night cowboy camping in the Sierra. Right at the base of Mather. I’m too tired to set up my tent. I pushed 16 miles today. I’m debating on going back into Bishop. Just for a quick in and out. I want a recharge of my devices and some snacks. I really like my food packing. I have little to no trash, after 3 days in the backcountry! VVR is the next logical resupply, I could just head straight there. Tomorrow, I head towards Muir Pass. The reason we have this trail. Not specifically because of the pass, but because of the guy, John Muir. Taking a moment to appreciate those who came before and recognized the beauty we push to see. I feel honored to be out here.
2 MONTHS, WHO’S COUNTING?
Day 60, I’ve been on trail for 2 months. I celebrate with a trip. The day has actually been one of the most beautiful sections so far. From here, I’d say, that we’re now entering the Yosemite transition period. Waterfalls in plethora during this section. I feel, in essence, that we thru hikers have become masters. Masters at the craft of being rustic, dirty, dingy, adventure seekers. Sitting here, in what feels prehistoric and virtually untouched by mankind, makes me realize that we often find ourselves thinking too much. The meaning of thru hiking is “go with the flow”. Honestly? Every single thing I’ve questioned, has been answered shortly thereafter. The trail provides! So long as you open yourself for what to experience.
Everyone hiked off into Bishop. I find myself in a, relatively spooky-esq, forest. Bouncing in and out of open meadows, this is a nice place to camp. However, the mosquitos are absolutely relentless. My friend Bandit and I were talking about the need for mosquitos. That if we were to eliminate them, there would probably be a drastic change of environment. For some reason, they’re needed, but to me they are the devil in pure form. Despite the bug problem, the scenery is out of this world. Possibly, one of my nicer hikes. Although, I had a bit of help. Hiked almost 16 miles today. Today was a good day.
