Days 2-7
Miles 15.4-91.0
Woah – so you already read how my first day on the trail went – hot, rattlesnakey, and wonderful. Now, let me tell you about the rest of my week. I have to keep reminding myself that I am in Southern California. The terrain and environment is so different from the classic California that I always imagined. Right off the bat, the PCT offers a world of different ecosystems. Yes, they are similar but already throughout this week I was amazed to see the different climates.
Day 2 – 13.9 miles, through Lake Morena
I woke up on Day 2 at 5 am, determined to get to Lake Morena around 8:30. It was going to be another hot day – nothing like the day prior, but the temperatures would be hovering around 90 degrees. I have no desire to hike in that type of heat. To my surprise, when I finally left my tent at 5:45 am, everyone had already left. I chuckled to myself – nobody wants to hike in that heat. And here I am thinking I was starting early.
Anyways, when I get out of my tent, my bag is fully packed and the only thing I have left to do is dismantle my portable home. I was on the trail by 6 am, looking forward to going to the Malt Shop. The climb upwards was gradual with switchbacks. This is very different from my hiking back on the East Coast, where the trails just take you straight up the mountain. Lake Morena sits around 3,000 feet in elevation and is used as the reservoir for the local towns. The area surrounding the lake is a county park that offers fishing, boating, and camping. You aren’t allowed to swim in it, however, it does look tempting. Due to its elevation, the area has a variety of habitats.
The View of Lake Morena
I reached the Malt Shop at 8:30 am and immediately got a hamburger – I guess the hiker trash had immediately kicked in. A fellow hiker named Rooster offered to buy a Malt for me for my birthday, but I declined due to having tummy issues. Then, I went down to the campground and hung out in front of the bathroom with other thru-hikers to wait out the heat. At first, I was worried that I might get bored lounging around, but instead, I was able to occupy my time with phone calls and chit-chat. The time flew by so fast that when it finally became 3 pm, I almost did not want to leave. But I was determined to get to Boulder Oaks Campground. The hike between Lake Morena and Boulder Oaks was filled with desert sage and oak trees. The candle-like air guided me down the trail.
Desert Sage and Oak Trees
I finally got to the next campground around 6 pm and my stomach was absolutely murdering me. I was confused because I specifically declined the shake to avoid this feeling. I was so grateful for the bathrooms at the site. To my discovery, I got my period. Relieved that it is just the natural order of things, I did some quick mental math. Because of this recent development, it made me want to shower and do laundry. And if I did an extra 1.5 miles, then it would only be 13.9 miles to Mount Laguna rather than 15.5. A lot more doable in my head.
So with that, I strapped my bag onto my back and continued onwards, chasing the sunset. With every puff as I went uphill, I was mentally praying that nobody was camping at my intended campsite.
This also meant that I might actually camp alone. I have camped so many times in my life, but never truly alone. Before coming out here, I made a promise to myself that I would do the miles that I wanted to do, and I would prioritize cool sunrises and sunsets when it comes to camping. On the Appalachian Trail, I found myself doing fewer miles or more miles to try to stay with people out of comfort. This time, I knew I wanted to camp alone, but I just didn’t realize it was going to be on the second day.
the sunset on night 2
When I arrived at 6:30ish, the site was clear with nobody around. That night I was rewarded with a beautiful sunset and LTE service so I could FaceTime Dan. After finishing the phone call, I watched as the night took over and the cars from below filled the air with hums. I retreated into my tent, listening for the animals that never came. This is why I am out here; to expand my comfort zone in unimaginable beauty.
Day 3 – 13.9 miles, to Mount Laguna
When I woke up, I was greeted with an equally beautiful sunrise. I had a 3,000 foot climb into Mount Laguna. It felt like I was going up forever. Mount Laguna is a part of the Peninsular Range and is primarily composed of granitic rock. It sits at around 5,900 feet of elevation. Everything is so tall out here compared to my hometown that sits at a whopping 10 feet of elevation. Mount Laguna peers over the Anza-Borrego Desert and is home to pine oak forests.
Despite the climb having a general trend of upwards, it was (yet again) gradual. While walking, I met a southbounder named GolTech. He was completing the PCT – for the last 15 years, he has section hiked the entirety of the trail and this was the last portion he needed to complete. He mentioned that every Northbounder he meets, he likes to give them trail magic. He proceeded to offer me a choice of chips, Starbucks coffee, or candy. I opted for the chips and found out that he has cumulatively given out over 4,000 chips to thru-hikers – Thank you GolTech!!!
The view while climbing Mount Laguna
I got into the town of Mount Laguna around 1pm, which has a population of 40 people. The entire town is just one road that has a camp store, post office, a French Café and a tiny hostel. I stayed at the Tiny Block Hostel and ate at the French café. I went to the camp store to resupply. And I got to my laundry and took a refreshing shower. I have gone 10 days plus without taking a shower and yet, I think this is the grossest I have felt.
Day 4 – 6 miles, still in Mount Laguna
Cozy in a bunk bed, I could hear rain hitting the window that is next to my head. I thought we were in arid land – the place of no rain. Thankfully, I am inside a building when the area is experiencing this rarity. It made sleeping in too easy.
But I did eventually get up and go to the French Café for breakfast. I saw some hikers who I have been around and sat with them. Good coffee and french croissant sandwich – I think I may be in heaven. Afterwards, I went back to the hostel to sort out my resupply for the next few days and began to pack up. The hostel caretaker was super awesome and used to work in a big cat animal sanctuary and was showing off videos from his old work. I stayed at the hostel until about 2pm – mostly due to getting sucked into a conversation about the latest survivor season. (I’m so pleased with the winner this season).
Luckily, I only had 6 miles to go to Laguna Campground. I wanted to take it slow today. The hike between the two spots was spectacular. The large pine trees loomed over me with the ground littered in pine cones. Then leaving the landscape, I entered a chaparral covered mountain top with the desert floor underneath. The wind was howling but I was taken aback of the stark contrast between the two environments. Below me, it was barren and dry. It looked undesirable with a touch of this frightening allure. But around me was lush and vibrant. I was in awe. This is the most textbook example of the rain-shadow effect.
The rain-shadow effect!! so green up close and so brown far away
When I finally got to the Laguna campground, a fellow hiker, Alex, was waiting there. She is from England and started on May 9th. We met the day prior and agreed to take this day easy. At the campgrounds, we chatted and did some very cool bird watching. Eventually, a bigger group of hikers came and we all shared the campground making the $35 site, $3.80 per person. Even though it was 95 degrees less than 5 days ago, the temperature this night reached 34 degrees. I slept with my water filter, and almost all my layers to keep warm. (The water filter did not keep me warm, I had to keep it warm).
the group of thru-hikers at Mount Laguna Campground
Day 5 – 16.1 miles, Garnet Mountain and Kwaaymii Point
It was very cold this morning. When I packed up and decided to continue onto my journey, I needed to keep my beanie and raincoat on. The goal was about 11ish miles. Within the first two miles, there was a trail junction up to Garnet Mountain. Only 0.5 miles to the top with 360 views. I had to do it. Plus, it had garnets and I enjoy a good high grade metamorphosed rock as much as the next person. So, I dropped my back and sprinted upwards. The 360 of the desert floor and the higher altitude climate was worth the extra 30 minutes. I also met a guy up there that pointed out the bird that was flying around us; the swift.
The view on top of Garnet Mountain
As I continued my hike, the PCT led me to Kwaaymii Point, apparently a popular place for hang gliding. (I did not see any hang gliders). However, it did have an awesome information sign about the Native Americans in the area and their history. The point was right on the edge of the desert. I could feel the heat from the desert floor float up and capture the air surrounding me. This heat was also mixed with the winds that were coming from above me. It was strange. There were also many memorials along the path. It was almost as if I could feel the presence of death as I walked. It was eerie in my opinion and I picked up the pace.
Informational sign about the Native Americans – I could have taken a better photo (oops)
I met Alex at the next water source which was a water cache. We ate some food and chatted for a bit before hiking on. The miles were easy and I did not realize how fast we moved. By the time we got to the next water source, we decided on a campsite that was 16.1 miles from our start. (so much for wanting to take it slow). I packed out a crazy amount of water but that was an accident because the next day there was a water source pretty close and I just didn’t realize (oops).
The memorial spot
Day 6 – 13.9 miles to Julian!
Anotha day anotha walk. This day the goal was to get into Julian – a historical gold mining town. The only one in San Diego County. It was the Julian Schist that made this town famous. Also, Julian is the first ‘real’ town on the Pacific Crest Trail. Even though it still only exists on one road.
Blooming Beavertail Prickly Pear Cactus – opuntia basilaris (according to inaturalist)
Anyways, I was on trail by 6am. I saw some blooming cacti and started a new audiobook; Fourth Wing. This book actually was recommended to me two years ago but better late than never. So far, it is really good. For the last five days, I have been hiking mostly in silence. No music, no books, usually by myself with the exception of a few miles. I have just been taking in all the new scenery but it was today that I needed an external factor to help me keep going.
The last few miles before Julian dropped us into the flat valley where the different types of cacti lived and desert squirrels played. Technically, this is the high desert but being surrounded by the green prickly plants transported me to the Wild West.
the land going into Julian – chollas
At 12:20, I was 0.3 miles away from the underpass and the highway that takes you into Julian. I crossed paths with someone who was going Southbound. She told me that a shuttle was coming in about 10 minutes if I can make it – I began to sprint. With two minutes to spare, I got to the underpass and met Alex and two other hikers, Gadget and Ella. They were hanging out in the shade with not a care in the world. About five minutes late, a car pulled up ready to take thru-hikers into town. As we were about to pile in, two other thru-hikers, Sandra and Jonathon were coming at full force. They didn’t want to miss the shuttle either. All six of us piled into the car and drove into Julian.
ready to go to Julian!
The driver was named Raygel the Trail Angel. He thru-hiked the PCT a few years back and is also a New York Native. He grew up about 30 minutes away from my College town. Once we got into town, I got a new sun hoodie. This one is more vibrant and is better in the extreme heat. My previous one was made of merino wool and when it got wet, it felt like a sweater. This new sun hoodie is made of bamboo. It turns my sweat icy cold onto my skin. I made my way to the Gold Rush Hotel which has a 30% discount for PCT hikers. It is decorated very cutesy and old fashioned. I enjoyed the vintage and classic vibe. For dinner, I went out for Italian food with other thru-hikers.
Day 7 – 13.9 miles to the Water Cache
I woke up in my cutesy hotel, excited for the two course complimentary breakfast the Gold Rush Hotel offers. I went downstairs and ate breakfast with two women from Germany, Emily and Pia, and Alex. Alex told me she originally was going to zero in Julian however she has decided to get off trail all together. Instead, she is going to Thailand with the potential of going to a yoga retreat. Pretty badass if you ask me. This is the definition of Hike Your Own Hike (HYOH). Do what makes you happy and some people realize that hiking for five and a half months doesn’t fulfill them. While for others, it makes them the happiest. I will miss Alex but I support her endeavors and I am excited to continue onwards onto my hike.
the breakfast at the Gold Rush Hotel
After the delicious breakfast, I waited a bit to digest before getting my free pie from MOMs. They give all PCT thru-hikers free pie and a free drink!! So deeply kind and very cool. Once I finally made my way to the restaurant, I decided on a three berry pie with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. It was absolutely delicious and I couldn’t finish it. So I let others devour my left overs. With that, I made my way back to the gear shop to catch the 12pm shuttle.
Free pie at MOMs
By 12:30, I was back on trail. There was a water cache about 14ish miles away and my goal was to go as far as possible. I had 5 liters of water. 3 liters for every five miles and 2 liters in case I wanted to dry camp. (dry camp means to camp with no water source). As I climbed out of Julian, another hiker Peter from the Netherlands was walking in front of me. I watched as his water bottle tumbled out of his backpack pocket, and clinked down the steep mountainside. It was completely full and now he only had two liters left. Listen, it might be overkill but I have the capacity to carry 9.75 liters. I have 3.75 liters of water in smart water bottles. Then I have two CNOC water bags that can hold 2 liters and 3 liters. Then for good luck, I have a one liter sawyer squeeze bag. Call it overkill, but I would rather be safe than sorry. But as I watched Peter’s water get to a location that is unretrievable, I offered him an extra liter. Surprisingly, he is the third person I have given extra water since starting the trail. Sometimes it is because I carry too much and other times it is because they have carried too little. But I gave him my extra sawyer squeeze bag and filled it so he will have enough to get to the next water source.
More Chollas glowing in the sun
Personally, I love hiking with no exact campsite in mind. It is a freedom that is salivating. Around 5:30 I got to my first campsite that I considered. It was nice and exposed but I ultimately decided I would be bored if I stayed. So I made my decision quickly to carry on. I have four miles to do before sunset at 7:30. I enjoy hiking until sunset. If I don’t, I usually miss the sunset because I am already in my bed. Getting to the campsite that was four miles away, I went into focus mode and just continued down the path. I even saw a snake lying across the trail. I gasped when I realized but then just side stepped it. I honestly thought it was a harmless boa snake and took a photo before carrying on. Looking back, the snake in the photo had a really distinct tail… because it was another rattlesnake. At least it was in chill mode!
great pic of the rattlesnake
I finally got to my campsite that was 0.2 miles from the water cache at 7:20. I had more than enough time to step up camp and have dinner. I watched the sun go down and Peter joined me at the campsite. I have officially completed a week on the Pacific Crest Trail. So far, no blisters or any blaring injuries. I have met some really awesome people and valued the meaningful alone time immersed in the different shapes the desert has to offer.
sunset at the last campsite
